From Wiltshire to the wild: our unforgettable journey through Malawi
After a busy summer at Gastro Nicks, we swapped the Wiltshire countryside for something a little wilder - a journey through Malawi that took us from the bustle of Blantyre to the tranquil banks of the River Shire and the shimmering shores of Lake Malawi.
From Heathrow to the heart of Africa
The trip began, as all good adventures do, with an early flight and a few travel hiccups. Heathrow was surprisingly smooth - we didn’t even have to remove carefully bagged-up 100ml potions and lotions. After a glass or two of wine, a long wait on the runway, a second curry, and an unscheduled loop above foggy Addis Ababa, we finally landed in Malawi to sunshine, smiles, and a decidedly more thorough customs experience.
Across the Mukulumadzi bridge
Our first stop was Mkulumadzi Camp, a breathtaking hideaway on the banks of the River Shire (pronounced ‘Shiree’). Getting there meant crossing the camp’s famous suspension bridge - a swaying, heart-thumping start to our safari. It was hard to decide whether to have Nick in front or behind; it wobbled both ways.
Hosts Johan and Anneri welcomed us to their riverside lodge - and our lovely room overlooking the water- where our short stay soon fell into a blissful rhythm of early game drives, riverside brunches, and sundowners overlooking the hippo pools. Lions, elephants, and countless birds made appearances. One particularly memorable moment involved our guide’s jeep cutting out beside lion tracks on a steep slope and a good deal of creative bush mechanics when rescue arrived.
Lions, laughter and rain in Liwonde
A short hop by light aircraft took us to Kuthengo Camp in Liwonde National Park, where our larger-than-life guide, Henry, brought light to the landscape with his humour and deep knowledge of the wildlife.
Rain wasn’t on the agenda - nor were hippos snapping the pipe to the hot water supply - but both arrived in style. By 5.30am on the morning drive we were drenched, but it was worth every soggy minute to spot a cheetah and her tiny cubs hiding in the long grass.
The camp has three prides of lions. We saw Pride A on the first night, then Pride B - a male, female, and three irresistibly cuddly older cubs with enormous paws. Pride C, apparently the older son, was thought to be on the far side of the Majete with his harem.
Our evenings began with sundowners. Nothing can quite describe those 5.30pm stops for drinks as the sun went down - turning vivid red and disappearing so quickly, leaving animals silhouetted black against the early evening sky. Nights ended with hearty meals to the rhythmic grunts of hippos drifting up from the river.
Rest and reflection on Lake Malawi
Our final stop was Pumulani Lodge, perched high above Lake Malawi, where the pace slowed and relaxation took over. Our eyes popped as we were shown what was to be our home for the next five days - a spacious ‘flat’ with a kitchen area, living area, balcony, and an enormous bathroom with double everything and a slipper bath. Two steps led up to our bedroom and a second balcony with panoramic views over the lake, and a steady soundtrack of birdsong and waves. It was the perfect finale.
Days passed in a haze of swimming, reading, and sunset dhow cruises. We anchored in a tiny bay and looked down to see hundreds of fish in every colour and size - like floating above a giant aquarium. There was also a speedboat trip to meet the lake’s resident fish eagles - Obama, Michelle, Mugabe, and Mandela - swooping down for fish tossed from the boat.
There were minor misadventures too - a little too much sun without factor anything and a hasty vinegar-and-aloe treatment for the burn - but nothing could dim the magic. On our last night, the team set up a table just for us under the stars. Candles, fairy lights, fizz… it was pure joy.
A journey to remember
After three extraordinary lodges, endless wildlife encounters, and more than a few glasses of South African wine, we returned home sun-kissed, mosquito-tested, and full of stories.
We loved every moment - the people, the food, the laughter. It reminded us how food and hospitality can bring people together anywhere in the world. But next time, we’re taking more sun cream!
Inspired by our travels
Back at the deli, we’ve been reminiscing over our favourite flavours of the trip - sunshine-filled wines, vibrant ingredients, and dishes that celebrate simple, generous cooking.
If you’d like to bring a taste of something special to your own table, pop in to browse our range of wines, oils, and deli products - or explore online at www.gastronicks.co.uk.